- 1). Remove the engine's valve covers to expose the valve train. Use a screwdriver to shove a couple of rags into your cylinder head's oil-drain-back holes. Use a screwdriver, a stiff-bristle paintbrush and some paint thinner to clean the oil residue out from around the valve train.
- 2). Slip the appropriately sized socket over the bolt in the center of your crankshaft pulley. Attach a ratchet and a cheater bar to the socket and use them to turn the crankshaft. Turn the crankshaft until the top dead center marker on the crankshaft pulley rests below the pointer on the block.
- 3). Identify the exhaust valve on your No. 1 cylinder, which will be the drivers' side front on most V-configured engines or the front cylinder on inline engines. The exhaust valve is the one right above the exhaust port. The intake valve is right next to it.
- 4). Turn your crankshaft until the intake valve opens completely and just starts to close. This will ensure that the exhaust valve is completely closed.
- 5). Back the exhaust-valve adjuster nut off until the rocker arm is slightly loose. Grasp the push rod below it with your thumb and forefinger and twist it back and forth. While twisting, slowly tighten the rocker arm nut until you feel a slight resistance while trying to twist the push rod.
- 6). Give the adjusting nut another half turn to push the hydraulic lifter's plunger down into the lifter body. This will preload the lifter and prevent valve-train clatter.
- 7). Turn your crankshaft a little more until the intake valve closes, and the exhaust valve that you just adjusted completely opens and then begins to close again. This will ensure that the intake valve is completely shut.
- 8). Repeat steps 5 and 6 on the intake valve rocker arm.
- 9). Move onto the next cylinder in your engine's firing order. Repeat steps 3 through 8 on that cylinder and continue adjusting all of the cylinders in the firing order sequence until you're finished.
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