- 1). Remove packaging materials, including the cardboard base from the underside of the water heater. Locate the Owner’s Guide and Installation Instructions and read them thoroughly.
- 2). Select a location for the water heater, which can be either indoors or outdoors. It should be installed at ground or floor level and must stand vertically. It must be accessible without the use of a ladder or scaffold and should have its own height as headroom above it, if possible, to allow the anode to be inspected at a later date without removing the entire water heater. Install it close to the most frequently used outlet and select a position with safety and service requirements in mind. Check that the installation site complies with your local building codes and regulatory authority requirements.
- 3). Install an isolation valve and non-return valve on the cold water line that you will be running into the heater. Disconnection unions must be placed at the cold water inlet and hot water outlet to allow future disconnection of the water heater. The cold water inlet and hot water inlet and temperature and pressure relief valve can be connected to either side of the water heater with left or right side water connections. Your kit will come with two three-quarter-inch brass plugs for the inlet and outlet and one half-inch brass plug for the temperature and pressure relief valve. Apply sealing tape and fit and tighten them to the unused fittings. Fit the supplied plastic insulation caps over the plugs. The hot water line from the water heater must never be a larger diameter than the cold water input line.
- 4). Check that the temperature pressure relief valve is intact and the probe is not bent. The TPR valve is usually shipped under the top flap of the water heater carton, behind the front cover or in a plastic bag. Seal the thread with tape and screw it into the opening using the spanner flats provided. Leave the valve outlet pointing downward. Fit a copper drain line to keep discharge away from the water heater. In some areas, local regulations will require you to install an expansion control valve on the cold water input line. Check with local authorities.
- 5). Install the electrical connection when the plumbing is complete. It must be directly connected to a 240-volt AC 50Hz mains power supply, with an isolating switch installed at the switchboard. The power supply should be off-peak/overnight to the bottom heating unit and continuous to the top heating unit. Use a flexible 20 mm conduit to take the electrical cable to the water heater and connect it to the unit with a 20 mm terminator. Connect the power supply wires directly to the terminal block and earth tab connection, ensuring there are no excess wire loops inside the front cover. The temperature rating of the power supply wires insulation must suit this application.
- 6). Check the thermostat setting. The water temperature is adjusted counterclockwise to reduce the temperature and clockwise too increase the temperature. Set it at the lowest temperature to provide sufficient hot water for economy and safety from scalding.
- 7). Fill the hot water system before you switch it on. Open all the hot water taps in the house, including any showers. Open the cold water isolation valve to let the water enter the heater. Air will be forced out of the taps and you must close each one as water flows freely from it. Check that your new pipe has no leaks. Switch on the electrical supply to the heater at the isolating switch and allow the water to heat. Your new system is now commissioned.
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