Removing the Brakes

• 1). Use a pump siphon kit to remove half the brake fluid from the master cylinder reservoir. Place one end of the siphon hose into the master cylinder and the other end into a container. Squeeze the pump until brake fluid starts to run through the hose.
  
  
• 2). Place a lug wrench on the lug nuts and turn counterclockwise to loosen the lug nuts until they can be turned by hand. It's important to loosen the nuts before jacking the car off the ground so the weight of the car keeps the tires from spinning. Jack the car up off the ground using a car jack and remove the lug nuts and tire by hand.
  
  
• 3). Mark the disc brake caliper with a pencil to distinguish between the left and right sides for future reference. Loosen the brake caliper bolts with an Allen wrench and disconnect the brake hose from the brake line. Remove the caliper anchor bolts with a wrench and move the caliper anchor plate and pads aside.
  
  
• 4). Remove the brake pads from the caliper, then remove the bolts from the caliper anchor plate. Remove the brake pads and spring clips.
  
  

Installing the Brakes

• 1). Position a C-clamp over the caliper piston and tighten the clamp until the piston is fully compressed. This helps fit the brake pads back into place. Install the spring clips and brake pads back in the caliper assembly.
  
  
• 2). Install the brake caliper anchor, using a torque wrench to tighten the anchor bolts to 74 foot-pounds (100 Nm).
  
  
• 3). Install the caliper with the new guide pins, using a torque wrench to tighten the bolts to 44 foot-pounds (60 Nm).
  
  
• 4). Install new copper washers in the brake hoses. Reconnect the hoses and install the flow bolt with a torque wrench to 22 foot-pounds (30 Nm).
  
  
• 5). Put the tire back on, tighten the lug nuts and lower the car to the ground. Re-tighten the lug nuts with the lug wrench; you will be able to tighten the lugs more with the weight of the car holding the tires in place.
  
  
• 6). Repeat the preceding steps on other brakes you plan to repair.
  
  

Bleeding the Brake System

• 1). Bleed the longest brake line first. Put the bleeder adapter on the brake master cylinder reservoir and connect the bleeder tank hose to the fitting on the adapter. Place a box-end wrench on the right-rear bleeder screw. Connect a rubber drain tube to the right-rear bleeder screw and submerge the other end of the tube in a container partially filled with clean brake fluid.
  
  
• 2). Open the valve on the bleeder tank. Loosen the right-rear bleeder screw. Leave it open until the brake fluid flows clear without any bubbles, then tighten the bleeder screw and remove the rubber hose.
  
  
• 3). Press and release the parking brake five times. Continue until clear, bubble-free fluid comes out. Tighten the right-rear bleeder screw and install the bleeder cap. Open the valve for the bleeder tank.
  
  
• 4). Loosen the left-rear bleeder screw and leave it open until clear, bubble-free brake fluid flows, then tighten the left-rear bleeder screw and remove the rubber hose. Continue bleeding the front of the system in the order from the right-front disc brake caliper bleeder screw and ending with the left-front brake caliper bleeder screw.
  
  
• 5). Shut the bleeder tank valve. Remove the tank hose from the adapter, then remove the adapter.
  
  
• 6). Pump the brake pedal several times to position the brake pads before attempting to move the vehicle. This will tighten the brake piston in place.
  
  
• 7). Fill the brake master cylinder with brake fluid. Drive the car in a safe area with little traffic to make sure the brakes are working properly.