In today's society its an unfortunate fact that burglary is common crime and also a devastating crime to experience for some people.
In my daily work as a locksmith i unfortunately get to see many properties that have been burgled so i also get first hand experience of what is effective and what is not at deterring this type of crime.
Most burglaries i visit are through forced attacks to a door or window.
Sometimes basic tools are used like a screwdriver etc but mainly its what they can find lying around at the target property.
Outside sheds are a great source of break in tools for criminals and yet most sheds have weak security with most people thinking "well there is not much worth nicking from there anyway".
Thieves know this and will normally target a shed first to get tools to use on the main property, if there is something of value in the shed, then thats a bonus.
To prevent your door being forced in you need to take basic steps then add more enhanced security depending on the level of threat in your area.
Basic security for a wooden door should include a deadlocking yale type nightlatch and a good mortice lock(chubb type).
Not all mortice locks are the same so to satisfy insurance standards you will need a british standard lock conforming to BS 3621.
To check if you have one open the door and look at the face plate of the lock (the side the bolt comes out of) and look for a kite mark.
This denotes its passed the bs3621 test.
Recently a new british standard has been approved called BS 3621-2004, this brings the uk in line with europe and it also means the locks are better.
Generally locks with the new standard have bigger bolts (at least 20mm) and are more secure so it worth going for these from now on.
Once you have this security on you door the frame is now the weak spot.
To secure the frame you need a london bar which runs down the length or the door frame and around the keep for the nightlatch.
This will prevent the average kick you door in type attacks.
If you wish to strengthen the hinge side hinge bolts can be fitted and a Birmingham bar to go down the frame, this is like a london bar but flat and preventsthe hinge screws from splitting out.
If you really want to beef up your door some more a lock guard is the next item.
This consists of 2 pieces of metal with keyholes (various finishes available) and clamps around the mortice lock to strengthen the locks part of the door completely.
Its worth noting some people go down this route with 2 mortice locks especially on flats where the only point of entry is through that door.
If you want to go a step further you can get steel reinforcing sheets for the door and also anti jemmy strips.
The anti jemmy strips are 2 pieces of metal one of which attaches to the door and the other to the frame and interlock when the doors is closed.
They make it impossible to get a crowbar etc into the gap between the door and the frame on the locking side.
If you want to go even further still you may as well get a steel security gate or steel door which is anothe subject on its own.
I hope this has been of use to you all.
In my daily work as a locksmith i unfortunately get to see many properties that have been burgled so i also get first hand experience of what is effective and what is not at deterring this type of crime.
Most burglaries i visit are through forced attacks to a door or window.
Sometimes basic tools are used like a screwdriver etc but mainly its what they can find lying around at the target property.
Outside sheds are a great source of break in tools for criminals and yet most sheds have weak security with most people thinking "well there is not much worth nicking from there anyway".
Thieves know this and will normally target a shed first to get tools to use on the main property, if there is something of value in the shed, then thats a bonus.
To prevent your door being forced in you need to take basic steps then add more enhanced security depending on the level of threat in your area.
Basic security for a wooden door should include a deadlocking yale type nightlatch and a good mortice lock(chubb type).
Not all mortice locks are the same so to satisfy insurance standards you will need a british standard lock conforming to BS 3621.
To check if you have one open the door and look at the face plate of the lock (the side the bolt comes out of) and look for a kite mark.
This denotes its passed the bs3621 test.
Recently a new british standard has been approved called BS 3621-2004, this brings the uk in line with europe and it also means the locks are better.
Generally locks with the new standard have bigger bolts (at least 20mm) and are more secure so it worth going for these from now on.
Once you have this security on you door the frame is now the weak spot.
To secure the frame you need a london bar which runs down the length or the door frame and around the keep for the nightlatch.
This will prevent the average kick you door in type attacks.
If you wish to strengthen the hinge side hinge bolts can be fitted and a Birmingham bar to go down the frame, this is like a london bar but flat and preventsthe hinge screws from splitting out.
If you really want to beef up your door some more a lock guard is the next item.
This consists of 2 pieces of metal with keyholes (various finishes available) and clamps around the mortice lock to strengthen the locks part of the door completely.
Its worth noting some people go down this route with 2 mortice locks especially on flats where the only point of entry is through that door.
If you want to go a step further you can get steel reinforcing sheets for the door and also anti jemmy strips.
The anti jemmy strips are 2 pieces of metal one of which attaches to the door and the other to the frame and interlock when the doors is closed.
They make it impossible to get a crowbar etc into the gap between the door and the frame on the locking side.
If you want to go even further still you may as well get a steel security gate or steel door which is anothe subject on its own.
I hope this has been of use to you all.
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