- 1). Select a partially shaded site that is protected from wind. Avoid planting boxwoods in exposed areas or at the corners of a house where winds and cold temperatures will dry out the shrubs and cause winter damage, also known as bronzing.
- 2). Send a soil sample to a university extension or commercial lab to receive a soil test. This soil test will offer information on the pH level of the soil as well as any nutrient deficiencies.
- 3). Add lime to soil that is too acidic---as indicated by the soil test---to raise the pH to between 6.5 and 7.0. Add sphagnum peat, elemental sulfur or an organic mulch to soil that is too alkaline to lower the pH to between 6.5 and 7.0.
- 4). Dig a hole for each boxwood twice as wide and as deep as the root ball. Remove the plant from the container and set it in the hole at the same depth it grew in the nursery. Planting it deeper may stunt its growth or even kill the shrub. Backfill the hole halfway with soil and fill the hole with water. Allow the water to drain and then fill the hole completely with soil, tamping it down lightly with your foot. Water again so the soil is evenly moist.
- 5). Space the shrubs 3 feet apart if you wish to grow a hedge. They grow slowly, but eventually they reach 4 feet in height.
- 6). Place a layer of 2 to 3 inches of organic mulch, such as wood chips or pine straw mulch, around the base of each shrub and extending 12 inches beyond the canopy. Mulch will maintain moisture, insulate the roots and minimize weed growth. Replenish the mulch as needed.
- 7). Water the shrubs at least weekly during summer for the first two years of growth. As the shrubs mature, they become more drought-tolerant, but adequate watering initially will help them develop strong roots.
SHARE
