- 1). Put on a pair of thick gloves when working with holly bushes and don't do it in sandals. The plant loses the old leaves every three years which means there are very sharp dry leaves underfoot. Long sleeves and full pants are also recommended to prevent painful sticks with the leaves.
- 2). Encourage the bush's natural pyramidal shape, beginning when it is young. It has a natural pyramid shape but grows out from the base which can make it difficult and painful to maintain. For a tree shape, prune upward from the ground and cut off all the growth on the trunk up to 2 or 3 feet from the ground. December is the best time to prune, when the plant is dormant.
- 3). Remove the old and weak stems and any wood that is dead with pruners. Remove old clusters of berries if any remain. Cut out any branches that are rubbing together or cross. Prune wood to 1/4 inch before the parent wood. Always prune dead wood back to live material. A saw or loppers will be beneficial in removing old and deep growth.
- 4). Thin out the interior of the bush to promote air flow and light. This is selective pruning and the amount and actual pieces removed are up to you, however, never remove more than one-third of the wood at one time. This includes any height that you will be removing. Use pole pruners to take out the higher wood and remove errant shoots from the top of the holly.
- 5). Shape the plant if you wish. Hollies can be shaped into hedges or other shapes but be aware that such severe pruning will likely affect the flower and berry production as it removes the newer wood that the plants bear from.
- 6). Clean up after you have finished pruning. Shake the bush so much of the stray leaves will fall out of the plant. Rake up the debris, including previous season's leaves. This will make it much more comfortable to be around the holly without injury.
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