- While bin composters are readily available, you can make your own from a plastic storage tub. The minimal size is one of the main benefits of a bin. Plastic bins also provide a self-contained unit that isn't likely to smell or leak when tended to correctly. For kitchen use, a 2-foot-by-3-foot box that's no more than a foot deep is usually sufficient. The bin has drainage holes in the bottom and aeration holes in the lid. It must be set upon a drip tray of some sort to catch any liquid that drains from the worm bedding inside.
- Commercially made tray composters come in a variety of sizes, but they take up more room than most bin composters. They consist of stacked trays on a frame. The worms and bedding are placed in the bottom tray. Once all the bedding in this tray is converted to compost, a second tray is added on top and the process begins again. You can continue to stack trays as needed, harvesting the finished compost once the worms migrate into the next tray.
- Eisenia foetida make some of the best composting worms. They thrive in relatively shallow soils and they eat constantly, two necessary traits in a kitchen composter. Lumbricus rebellus worms also thrive in compost bins. Both types are usually sold under the name red worm or red wiggler. Earthworms and night crawlers do not survive in shallow kitchen composters and shouldn't be used.
- Red worms bed in organic matter, which provides both their food and home. Shredded newspaper provides suitable bedding in the kitchen composter, but a handful of soil must be added to provide the grit the worms need for digestion. Keep the bedding as damp as a wrung-out sponge, as the worms cannot survive in a dry bin. Feed the worms organic kitchen waste from vegetables and fruits, as well as eggshells and coffee grounds. Avoid meats, dairy items and greasy foods as the worms can't digest it and the odors attract pests and insects.
Bin Composters
Tray Composters
Choosing Worms
Vermicompost Basics
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