Many gardeners don't even try repotting orchids because, while it really isn't that hard to do, it is not the same as repotting other types of plants that they are familiar with. Don't avoid this task because it is a crucial step in orchid care. An orchid that is allowed to remain in the same pot too long will flower poorly and may even die.
Unless it is an emergency, the best time for repotting orchids with pseudo bulbs is just after they have begun to produce a new growth but before the new roots have begun to elongate.
The best type of potting soil is a professionally produced mix consisting of fir bark that has been cut into mid sized pieces. Moth orchids (Phalaenopsis) or slipper orchids (Paphiopedilum) which don't have pseudo bulbs can be repoted when ever you like, just try not to do it the orchid is flowering.
1. UNPOT THE ORCHID
Because repotting orchids can be somewhat of a messy task, it's a good idea to cover your work area with a few sheets of newspaper. Turn the plant upsidedown so that the top is directly over the newspaper and gently tap the side and bottom portions of the pot to loosen it. Getting the orchid out of the pot is sometimes a challenge because the roots often stick to the pot. If this happens to you, you can use a dull kitchen knife to try and loosen them. If some of the older roots become damaged, that's okay, the plant itself won't be harmed.
Once you've gotten your plant free, you can pry apart its roots and shake out as much of its old potting mixture as you can. Don't worry if some of the old potting mix sticks to the roots.
2.GET READY FOR REPOTTING
You are going to have to trim the roots a bit before placing the orchid into its new home, You'll want to have a knife that's pretty sharp or a heavy pair of scissors to work with. Dampen a cloth with rubbing alcohol and wipe all blades thoroughly to eliminate the chance of a viral disease infecting your orchid.
Inspect the plant for dead or damaged roots, and get rid of them. You will be able to recognize dead roots by their mushy consistency and light brown color. Roots that are healthy have light-green tips, an indication that they are growing, are firm to the touch and white in color. Cut off any old, leafless pseudo bulbs at this time. For those bulbs that contain at least two leads or new growths, the plant can be divided by making an incision that goes down the center of the rhizome. Each division should contain a minimum of one new growth and three pseudo bulbs.
3. REPOT THE PLANT
Pick a pot that will have plenty of room for new growth - about two year's worth - based on how much your plant has grown in the time you've had it. If you decide to reuse an orchid pot, you must clean it carefully and soak it for a half an hour in a mixture of ten percent chlorine bleach, then rinse with clean water (Clay pots should air out for a few days). If you are using a new clay pot, soak it in water for a few minutes.
Orchids need excellent drainage, so place a generous layer of broken crocks or plastic foam peanuts in the bottom of the pot. Wet your potting mix with boiling water, give it time to cool, then let it dry a bit before using it. When you place a new division in the pot, position the older pseudo bulbs to one side so that the new lead has plenty of room to grow out. Tightly pack the dampened bark mixture around the roots of your orchid, firming it with your fingers as you go along. The rhizome's top should be at the same level as the top layer of bark.
4. AFTERCARE
Make sure that your plant is set upright while its new root system is settling in. You can stake it with a loop of twine, or even try using a rhizome clip, which will attach it to the side of the pot in order to ensure that it grows up straight.
Place the orchid in an area that has light shade, you'll then need to mist the plant and the bark's surface two times a day until evidence of new growth is apparent. Once the roots have penetrated the bark, move the plant into brighter light and resume normal watering and fertilizing.
With practice you’ll be repotting orchids [http://www.orchidcaretips.net/repotting-orchids-in-four-easy-steps/] in no time.
Unless it is an emergency, the best time for repotting orchids with pseudo bulbs is just after they have begun to produce a new growth but before the new roots have begun to elongate.
The best type of potting soil is a professionally produced mix consisting of fir bark that has been cut into mid sized pieces. Moth orchids (Phalaenopsis) or slipper orchids (Paphiopedilum) which don't have pseudo bulbs can be repoted when ever you like, just try not to do it the orchid is flowering.
1. UNPOT THE ORCHID
Because repotting orchids can be somewhat of a messy task, it's a good idea to cover your work area with a few sheets of newspaper. Turn the plant upsidedown so that the top is directly over the newspaper and gently tap the side and bottom portions of the pot to loosen it. Getting the orchid out of the pot is sometimes a challenge because the roots often stick to the pot. If this happens to you, you can use a dull kitchen knife to try and loosen them. If some of the older roots become damaged, that's okay, the plant itself won't be harmed.
Once you've gotten your plant free, you can pry apart its roots and shake out as much of its old potting mixture as you can. Don't worry if some of the old potting mix sticks to the roots.
2.GET READY FOR REPOTTING
You are going to have to trim the roots a bit before placing the orchid into its new home, You'll want to have a knife that's pretty sharp or a heavy pair of scissors to work with. Dampen a cloth with rubbing alcohol and wipe all blades thoroughly to eliminate the chance of a viral disease infecting your orchid.
Inspect the plant for dead or damaged roots, and get rid of them. You will be able to recognize dead roots by their mushy consistency and light brown color. Roots that are healthy have light-green tips, an indication that they are growing, are firm to the touch and white in color. Cut off any old, leafless pseudo bulbs at this time. For those bulbs that contain at least two leads or new growths, the plant can be divided by making an incision that goes down the center of the rhizome. Each division should contain a minimum of one new growth and three pseudo bulbs.
3. REPOT THE PLANT
Pick a pot that will have plenty of room for new growth - about two year's worth - based on how much your plant has grown in the time you've had it. If you decide to reuse an orchid pot, you must clean it carefully and soak it for a half an hour in a mixture of ten percent chlorine bleach, then rinse with clean water (Clay pots should air out for a few days). If you are using a new clay pot, soak it in water for a few minutes.
Orchids need excellent drainage, so place a generous layer of broken crocks or plastic foam peanuts in the bottom of the pot. Wet your potting mix with boiling water, give it time to cool, then let it dry a bit before using it. When you place a new division in the pot, position the older pseudo bulbs to one side so that the new lead has plenty of room to grow out. Tightly pack the dampened bark mixture around the roots of your orchid, firming it with your fingers as you go along. The rhizome's top should be at the same level as the top layer of bark.
4. AFTERCARE
Make sure that your plant is set upright while its new root system is settling in. You can stake it with a loop of twine, or even try using a rhizome clip, which will attach it to the side of the pot in order to ensure that it grows up straight.
Place the orchid in an area that has light shade, you'll then need to mist the plant and the bark's surface two times a day until evidence of new growth is apparent. Once the roots have penetrated the bark, move the plant into brighter light and resume normal watering and fertilizing.
With practice you’ll be repotting orchids [http://www.orchidcaretips.net/repotting-orchids-in-four-easy-steps/] in no time.
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