Wanna Throw Your Hard Earned Cash Away? Then Don't Read Anymore...
Not all of us out there have the funds to purchase a brand new bike, so naturally we take the second hand route.
This can be very rewarding, but also very risky if you are unsure what exactly you are looking at.
Bikes can be 'made' to LOOK great with a little clean over, but often this is just done to hide the truth about the condition of the bike itself.
In this lens, I hope to open your eyes a little and give you a very short insight into where to look and what to look for when buying a second hand bike.
First Things First.
TAKE YOUR TIME!!!! We don't work all year round to just blow our hard earned money on the first bike that LOOKS great..
..
..
however in the excitement of the situation, this is exactly what a lot of us do.
First take your time, to look at the type of bike you want- sports bike, sports tourer, classic, trials etc etc etc..
..
the list can be pretty long.
Once you have chosen a make and model that you are really set on getting...
the hard work begins.
First browse as many sites as you can, to really get a good feel for the selling price of the bike you're after.
eBay is great for this, along with any classified ads in your area.
Before long you will begin to develop some knowledge around how much the bikes are selling for.
This is really important as you do not want to buy a bike, that will never hold its value, or in some cases just won't sell when the time comes.
Try to stay away from dealers until you have really got a feel for the values..
..
as they will almost always charge a lot more than private sellers.
Plus we're only really looking into private sales in this lens, as there are far more bargains to be had (after all dealers know everything in this lens and have done for years!!).
So You've Found a Bike! At last, the time has come..
...
you've spotted a bike that looks in great condition (in the photo that is!) and you're off to take a look.
Before setting off, try to decide if the distance is worth the travel..
..
a bike may look great, but remember the travel and transport expenses need to be added on to the total spend.
Also it's always worth asking as many questions via telephone about the bike as you can think of before setting off, that way when you arrive, and one wheel is missing, you won't be surprised!!! Registration Documents, Tax and MOT.
First of all, we need to make sure we ask about all three of these, but we'll start with the registration document.
If you're new to the bike game in general, then basically, the registration document for the bike is what holds all of the important information about the bike- the bikes age, make, model, identification numbers etc etc.
So if the bike hasn't got one, I personally would walk away.
Lots of people may give you a great story as to why it isn't with the bike...
''it's in the post'' or ''it's just at my old house''.
Until it's there, don't hand over any cash! If you pay, then there is nothing to prove the bike is even yours..
..
or theirs more to the point!!!!! You need to check if the document actually ties in with the bike, engine size, make model etc.
No point buying a Suzuki, when the reg doc says Honda! Also check the frame and engine numbers on the paperwork and see if they tie in with the ones actually stamped/fixed to the bike.
(You'll have to ask to see where these are, as they vary in placement).
You need to check the 'number of previous owners' which is printed on the document.
This not only gives a good indication as to how the bike has been..
...
use your head, if the bike had 30 owners from new, then ask yourself why??? A good bike tends to stay with an owner for a good time, but this isn't crucial...
as some bikes change hands more regularly than others.
People start off on small bikes, get bored and then move up a size..
..
hence smaller bikes tend to get through the owners faster.
Also the number of previous owners is a good clue as to whether or not the total km/mileage is accurate.
Again think to yourself..
..
would a bike with 10 thousand miles on the clocks have had 15 previous owners????..
..
each owner doing less than a thousand miles? My guess is not! Some people replace clocks, or wind them back in order to sell for more money.
Use your gut instinct on this.
Look at the bikes Category...
this can make a huge impact on the sale price..
..
and for very good reasons.
Cat C for example means that the bike has been involved in a previous accident, which could have mean there are endless things wrong inside the bikes workings! Plus it will never sell for anywhere near the price of a standard bike.
Make sure the bike is NOT a 'Q' plate..
...
this basically means that no one really can prove where the bike originated, so it cannot be assigned a normal registration letter.
Hence is given a Q.
THESE BIKES WILL NOT SELL!!! Is the bike Taxed and has it got an up to date MOT?? The bike should have a tax disc displayed and have a current MOT certificate.
Tax isn't such a big problem, but will mean you'll have to pay out once it's yours...
plus you won't be able to ride it home! MOT is a lot more important.
If it hasn't got one, then it should at least have old ones for you to have a look at.
These give a clear historical record as to whether or not the bike has been prone to problems, or had lots of work done.
Plus if it hasn't got a current certificate, then yet again that's another load of cash you'll have to spend once you've forked out the initial sale price!...
and yet again, no riding home, as this is illegal.
Has the bike got some service history??? Look for receipts for this.
This is about the best proof that the bike has been maintained over time, and looked after.
Services are not a legal requirement but are essential to keep the bike healthy.
MOT and service history is also key to proving the km/mileage of the bike, as the mechanics always include this information along the way.
Overall Condition No this isn't the state of the guys overalls who's selling the bike...
this is the fine detail and overall condition that the bike is in.
Here is a little list I work down..
..
..
..
1- Is the bike rusty? Not just overall, but in hard to see places.
Rust always means that there will be more on the way!!!!! 2- If the bike has plastic fairings on, are any of them cracked or damaged? I try to stay away from bikes that have extensive fairing damage..
...
it just costs way to much to fix..
..
and obviously reduces the bikes value.
It costs hundreds to replace fairings and most people like a bike that looks it's best.
3- Wherever there is plastic, or painted/sprayed metal, try to see behind a section or around the bolts fixing it to the frame.
This will give you a clue as to whether the bike has been resprayed/painted unprofessionally, as you will be able to see slight colour differences..
..
or real obvious ones! e.
g red, when the outside is green!! Usually a bike will be resprayed if it has been dropped, or scratched etc so keep this in mind.
4- Has the tank got dents in? Is the seat ripped? Are the handle bars straight? Are the lights working? Indicators working? Try everything out, to see if the electrics are strong.
If you press the start button on a bike, it should 'spin' fast, and not sound like it is struggling to to start.
If it does, and sounds sluggish, the battery may be on it's way out.
Same problem if the lights and indicators are weak.
Yet again more cost.
All of the previous cosmetic things I mentioned in this section are not huge problems, but will eat away at your savings until the end of time!! Trust me, the more you spend, the more you will need to sell the bike for to make your money back.
5- Is the bike a well known make? Imported bikes and not so well known makes are often hard to sell again and often getting replacement parts is a lot harder and more expensive than to top makes.
I always try to stick with the leading makes.
That way, you have a clear way of finding evidence to show how reliable the make is.
Just Google it!!! Hundreds of review pages are on offer on the net.
6- Is the engine leaking oil form anywhere? Really take a good look.
This can be hard, as some areas are hidden, but try to take your time with this.
Oil leaking, just means yet more cost!! In some cases, more cost than the bike itself is worth.
7- Are the header/downpipes rusty? these are the pipes that come out of the bike engine and lead to the exhaust system...
They are often exposed to the elements.
If they are very rusty, they will cost a small fortune to replace!! So keep that in the front of your mind.
Plus if they have holes in, the bike will not pass an MOT.
8- Forks and fork seals.
Take a good look at the forks.
Are the fork seals leaking.
Physically check this by running your fingers around them, then push down on the handlebars hard...
then check again.
This should cause the forks to leak a little if there's a problem.
More cost if they are.
Look at the tops of the forks to see if they have been fully adjusted.
If they have been adjusted to as far as they will go, then something is more than likely wrong with the fork springs inside..
..
very costly job to fix, not to say how uncomfortable the ride will be until you do!.
Are the forks bent or twisted? Stay well away if they are.
Your talking big repairs here, plus this indicates a collision...
it's just not worth it..
..
(unless the bike in an absolute steal, but in my experience very risky unless you really know what you are doing.
9- Chain and Sprockets.
The sprockets are the main 'gear' looking things on a bike.
I say that in simple terms, as there's no need to complicate things even further.
Bikes have both front and rear sprockets.
You'll see the rear sprocket situated in the middle of the back wheel...
and the chain, which describes itself...
will be running over the top of this.
The front sprocket will be out of site inside the engine casing.
You will need to have a close look at the sprocket to see if the teeth are starting to wear.
They should not look like the picture! They should be nice and full, and not 'hooking' so to speak.
As the sprockets are usually fitted as a pair, there is a very good chance that the front one will look just as bad.
On riding the bike, you will be able to feel and sometimes hear the effects on this on acceleration and slowing down.
When the sprockets are worn, the chain doesn't fit like it should, and becomes 'rattly' and loose.
Something to be aware of.
Another hundred or so to the cost!! Make sure the chain is free moving and the links are not seized in place.
To see this, take a close look at the chain.
Follow it along its length and see if it goes 'wonky' in places.
This is where two links are stuck together.
The chain should be smooth all the way along.
10- Tyres.
Very important, and also very expensive!!! You need to take a very close look at the tyres themselves.
Make sure that there is plenty of tread depth left in them.
Make sure that the tyres have no splits, or cracks in them.
Have a look to see if the tyres are wearing unevenly.
Sounds weird, but it may be an indication that the frame of the bike is twisted.
Not saying it will be, but if it is, it's better to just to walk away.
The cost would be huge and not worth it.
The cost of a good set of tyres can run into hundreds again, so make sure you when you buy the bike, it has someone elses hard earned money spent on them!! Once you've checked these things, you'll need to hear the bike running.
Make sure the bike's engine is cold.
Put your had close to the engine to see if the sneaky seller has had the bike running for half an hour before you turned up!! Then when you arrive, he amazing starts the bike first time and tells you it does that every time!!! yeah right..
..
best check for yourself! If the bike starts well from cold, it means the bike engine is more likely to be healthy than if it doesn't.
Don't worry if the bike needs a little choke (if it's manual choke) this is completely normal.
When the engine is running, listen to how it sounds.
Get your head right down close to the engine and listen for any rattles and knocks.
If there are any considerable knocks, this could mean a whole range of problems..
..
some serious, some not so serious, but are you willing to take the risk??? Rev the bike using the throttle..
...
does the throttle seem smooth and responsive? Does it splutter and struggle to really get that booming sound out that we all love to hear? Hopefully not, because if it does, then something is wrong.
Without stripping the engine apart, it could mean anything.
Wanna risk it again??? Next, get the bike on a paddock stand.
This is to test the gears.
You'll need the engine running, and the revs going..
..
and your eyes open! Don't hurt yourself or get yourself/clothes stuck in the back wheel!! I know a guy who broke his arm in this way! Just be careful.
Click from one gear to the next, to the next, to the next etc until you have tested how smooth they change.
You're looking for a really smooth, short sweet click between each one.
No harsh crunching, or gear lever resistance.
Worn gears are very costly to replace, and unless the bike is being sold for a steal...
or your a mechanic (in which case you wouldn't be reading this) it may not be worth buying.
Handing Over The Cash!!! Now the time has come to say goodbye to your cash..
..
..
it's a sad time, but now you REALLY know what you're buying and feel as satisfied as can be, that the bike isn't stolen, gonna explode or fall to pieces on the way home, you can relax a little.
I hope that this lens has helped you to make the right choice and has taught you a little about buying a motorcycle.
It is merely based on my own personal knowledge and therefore there will, no doubt be more points to look for when buying a bike.
However this should really set you off to a good start.
I wish you all happy and safe riding for the rest of your days.
NOW GO GET THAT KNEE DOWN! P.
Miles.
Not all of us out there have the funds to purchase a brand new bike, so naturally we take the second hand route.
This can be very rewarding, but also very risky if you are unsure what exactly you are looking at.
Bikes can be 'made' to LOOK great with a little clean over, but often this is just done to hide the truth about the condition of the bike itself.
In this lens, I hope to open your eyes a little and give you a very short insight into where to look and what to look for when buying a second hand bike.
First Things First.
TAKE YOUR TIME!!!! We don't work all year round to just blow our hard earned money on the first bike that LOOKS great..
..
..
however in the excitement of the situation, this is exactly what a lot of us do.
First take your time, to look at the type of bike you want- sports bike, sports tourer, classic, trials etc etc etc..
..
the list can be pretty long.
Once you have chosen a make and model that you are really set on getting...
the hard work begins.
First browse as many sites as you can, to really get a good feel for the selling price of the bike you're after.
eBay is great for this, along with any classified ads in your area.
Before long you will begin to develop some knowledge around how much the bikes are selling for.
This is really important as you do not want to buy a bike, that will never hold its value, or in some cases just won't sell when the time comes.
Try to stay away from dealers until you have really got a feel for the values..
..
as they will almost always charge a lot more than private sellers.
Plus we're only really looking into private sales in this lens, as there are far more bargains to be had (after all dealers know everything in this lens and have done for years!!).
So You've Found a Bike! At last, the time has come..
...
you've spotted a bike that looks in great condition (in the photo that is!) and you're off to take a look.
Before setting off, try to decide if the distance is worth the travel..
..
a bike may look great, but remember the travel and transport expenses need to be added on to the total spend.
Also it's always worth asking as many questions via telephone about the bike as you can think of before setting off, that way when you arrive, and one wheel is missing, you won't be surprised!!! Registration Documents, Tax and MOT.
First of all, we need to make sure we ask about all three of these, but we'll start with the registration document.
If you're new to the bike game in general, then basically, the registration document for the bike is what holds all of the important information about the bike- the bikes age, make, model, identification numbers etc etc.
So if the bike hasn't got one, I personally would walk away.
Lots of people may give you a great story as to why it isn't with the bike...
''it's in the post'' or ''it's just at my old house''.
Until it's there, don't hand over any cash! If you pay, then there is nothing to prove the bike is even yours..
..
or theirs more to the point!!!!! You need to check if the document actually ties in with the bike, engine size, make model etc.
No point buying a Suzuki, when the reg doc says Honda! Also check the frame and engine numbers on the paperwork and see if they tie in with the ones actually stamped/fixed to the bike.
(You'll have to ask to see where these are, as they vary in placement).
You need to check the 'number of previous owners' which is printed on the document.
This not only gives a good indication as to how the bike has been..
...
use your head, if the bike had 30 owners from new, then ask yourself why??? A good bike tends to stay with an owner for a good time, but this isn't crucial...
as some bikes change hands more regularly than others.
People start off on small bikes, get bored and then move up a size..
..
hence smaller bikes tend to get through the owners faster.
Also the number of previous owners is a good clue as to whether or not the total km/mileage is accurate.
Again think to yourself..
..
would a bike with 10 thousand miles on the clocks have had 15 previous owners????..
..
each owner doing less than a thousand miles? My guess is not! Some people replace clocks, or wind them back in order to sell for more money.
Use your gut instinct on this.
Look at the bikes Category...
this can make a huge impact on the sale price..
..
and for very good reasons.
Cat C for example means that the bike has been involved in a previous accident, which could have mean there are endless things wrong inside the bikes workings! Plus it will never sell for anywhere near the price of a standard bike.
Make sure the bike is NOT a 'Q' plate..
...
this basically means that no one really can prove where the bike originated, so it cannot be assigned a normal registration letter.
Hence is given a Q.
THESE BIKES WILL NOT SELL!!! Is the bike Taxed and has it got an up to date MOT?? The bike should have a tax disc displayed and have a current MOT certificate.
Tax isn't such a big problem, but will mean you'll have to pay out once it's yours...
plus you won't be able to ride it home! MOT is a lot more important.
If it hasn't got one, then it should at least have old ones for you to have a look at.
These give a clear historical record as to whether or not the bike has been prone to problems, or had lots of work done.
Plus if it hasn't got a current certificate, then yet again that's another load of cash you'll have to spend once you've forked out the initial sale price!...
and yet again, no riding home, as this is illegal.
Has the bike got some service history??? Look for receipts for this.
This is about the best proof that the bike has been maintained over time, and looked after.
Services are not a legal requirement but are essential to keep the bike healthy.
MOT and service history is also key to proving the km/mileage of the bike, as the mechanics always include this information along the way.
Overall Condition No this isn't the state of the guys overalls who's selling the bike...
this is the fine detail and overall condition that the bike is in.
Here is a little list I work down..
..
..
..
1- Is the bike rusty? Not just overall, but in hard to see places.
Rust always means that there will be more on the way!!!!! 2- If the bike has plastic fairings on, are any of them cracked or damaged? I try to stay away from bikes that have extensive fairing damage..
...
it just costs way to much to fix..
..
and obviously reduces the bikes value.
It costs hundreds to replace fairings and most people like a bike that looks it's best.
3- Wherever there is plastic, or painted/sprayed metal, try to see behind a section or around the bolts fixing it to the frame.
This will give you a clue as to whether the bike has been resprayed/painted unprofessionally, as you will be able to see slight colour differences..
..
or real obvious ones! e.
g red, when the outside is green!! Usually a bike will be resprayed if it has been dropped, or scratched etc so keep this in mind.
4- Has the tank got dents in? Is the seat ripped? Are the handle bars straight? Are the lights working? Indicators working? Try everything out, to see if the electrics are strong.
If you press the start button on a bike, it should 'spin' fast, and not sound like it is struggling to to start.
If it does, and sounds sluggish, the battery may be on it's way out.
Same problem if the lights and indicators are weak.
Yet again more cost.
All of the previous cosmetic things I mentioned in this section are not huge problems, but will eat away at your savings until the end of time!! Trust me, the more you spend, the more you will need to sell the bike for to make your money back.
5- Is the bike a well known make? Imported bikes and not so well known makes are often hard to sell again and often getting replacement parts is a lot harder and more expensive than to top makes.
I always try to stick with the leading makes.
That way, you have a clear way of finding evidence to show how reliable the make is.
Just Google it!!! Hundreds of review pages are on offer on the net.
6- Is the engine leaking oil form anywhere? Really take a good look.
This can be hard, as some areas are hidden, but try to take your time with this.
Oil leaking, just means yet more cost!! In some cases, more cost than the bike itself is worth.
7- Are the header/downpipes rusty? these are the pipes that come out of the bike engine and lead to the exhaust system...
They are often exposed to the elements.
If they are very rusty, they will cost a small fortune to replace!! So keep that in the front of your mind.
Plus if they have holes in, the bike will not pass an MOT.
8- Forks and fork seals.
Take a good look at the forks.
Are the fork seals leaking.
Physically check this by running your fingers around them, then push down on the handlebars hard...
then check again.
This should cause the forks to leak a little if there's a problem.
More cost if they are.
Look at the tops of the forks to see if they have been fully adjusted.
If they have been adjusted to as far as they will go, then something is more than likely wrong with the fork springs inside..
..
very costly job to fix, not to say how uncomfortable the ride will be until you do!.
Are the forks bent or twisted? Stay well away if they are.
Your talking big repairs here, plus this indicates a collision...
it's just not worth it..
..
(unless the bike in an absolute steal, but in my experience very risky unless you really know what you are doing.
9- Chain and Sprockets.
The sprockets are the main 'gear' looking things on a bike.
I say that in simple terms, as there's no need to complicate things even further.
Bikes have both front and rear sprockets.
You'll see the rear sprocket situated in the middle of the back wheel...
and the chain, which describes itself...
will be running over the top of this.
The front sprocket will be out of site inside the engine casing.
You will need to have a close look at the sprocket to see if the teeth are starting to wear.
They should not look like the picture! They should be nice and full, and not 'hooking' so to speak.
As the sprockets are usually fitted as a pair, there is a very good chance that the front one will look just as bad.
On riding the bike, you will be able to feel and sometimes hear the effects on this on acceleration and slowing down.
When the sprockets are worn, the chain doesn't fit like it should, and becomes 'rattly' and loose.
Something to be aware of.
Another hundred or so to the cost!! Make sure the chain is free moving and the links are not seized in place.
To see this, take a close look at the chain.
Follow it along its length and see if it goes 'wonky' in places.
This is where two links are stuck together.
The chain should be smooth all the way along.
10- Tyres.
Very important, and also very expensive!!! You need to take a very close look at the tyres themselves.
Make sure that there is plenty of tread depth left in them.
Make sure that the tyres have no splits, or cracks in them.
Have a look to see if the tyres are wearing unevenly.
Sounds weird, but it may be an indication that the frame of the bike is twisted.
Not saying it will be, but if it is, it's better to just to walk away.
The cost would be huge and not worth it.
The cost of a good set of tyres can run into hundreds again, so make sure you when you buy the bike, it has someone elses hard earned money spent on them!! Once you've checked these things, you'll need to hear the bike running.
Make sure the bike's engine is cold.
Put your had close to the engine to see if the sneaky seller has had the bike running for half an hour before you turned up!! Then when you arrive, he amazing starts the bike first time and tells you it does that every time!!! yeah right..
..
best check for yourself! If the bike starts well from cold, it means the bike engine is more likely to be healthy than if it doesn't.
Don't worry if the bike needs a little choke (if it's manual choke) this is completely normal.
When the engine is running, listen to how it sounds.
Get your head right down close to the engine and listen for any rattles and knocks.
If there are any considerable knocks, this could mean a whole range of problems..
..
some serious, some not so serious, but are you willing to take the risk??? Rev the bike using the throttle..
...
does the throttle seem smooth and responsive? Does it splutter and struggle to really get that booming sound out that we all love to hear? Hopefully not, because if it does, then something is wrong.
Without stripping the engine apart, it could mean anything.
Wanna risk it again??? Next, get the bike on a paddock stand.
This is to test the gears.
You'll need the engine running, and the revs going..
..
and your eyes open! Don't hurt yourself or get yourself/clothes stuck in the back wheel!! I know a guy who broke his arm in this way! Just be careful.
Click from one gear to the next, to the next, to the next etc until you have tested how smooth they change.
You're looking for a really smooth, short sweet click between each one.
No harsh crunching, or gear lever resistance.
Worn gears are very costly to replace, and unless the bike is being sold for a steal...
or your a mechanic (in which case you wouldn't be reading this) it may not be worth buying.
Handing Over The Cash!!! Now the time has come to say goodbye to your cash..
..
..
it's a sad time, but now you REALLY know what you're buying and feel as satisfied as can be, that the bike isn't stolen, gonna explode or fall to pieces on the way home, you can relax a little.
I hope that this lens has helped you to make the right choice and has taught you a little about buying a motorcycle.
It is merely based on my own personal knowledge and therefore there will, no doubt be more points to look for when buying a bike.
However this should really set you off to a good start.
I wish you all happy and safe riding for the rest of your days.
NOW GO GET THAT KNEE DOWN! P.
Miles.
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