Travel & Places Cruise Travel

Japanese Ports of Call: Nagasaki and Shimonoseki



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Shimonoseki, Japan -- Home of the Fugu (Blowfish)
I had never even heard of Shimonoseki, Japan before we decided to go on this cruise. However, the city was a pleasant surprise for us both. The Silver Shadow was welcomed to Shimonoseki by Japanese drummers and costumed Samurais and other characters. Again, we were made to feel like special guests of the city. Shimonoseki sits on the extreme tip of the Japanese island of Honshu.

The narrow Kanmon Strait separates Honshu from the neighboring island of Kyushu. It didn't take much imagination to picture the many legendary naval battles that occurred in this strait. Today the two islands are connected by both a beautiful suspension bridge and an underwater tunnel. Although today Shimonoseki is a lovely harbor town, the city is most famous as the center of blowfish cuisine in Japan.
The Shimonoseki region of Japan produces more blowfish than any other in Japan. The city is decorated with blowfish memorabilia and statues. Although stewing and frying are popular ways to prepare blowfish, slicing the raw fish into thin transparent slices and arranging it on an Imariyaki porcelain plate like a chrysanthemum or a crane is the most beautiful way to present it.

Japanese call the blowfish "fugu", which is pronounced "fuku", which sounds like the word for good luck. Interestingly, "fugu" sounds identical to the Japanese word for bad luck. This name is important, because fugu is extremely poisonous if not prepared properly.

Death can occur in just minutes. Most people eat fugu for the thrill (and the ability to say, "been there done that") rather than the rather bland taste. It's almost like playing Russian roulette with your food. Chefs undergo special training in order to learn how to dress a blowfish. Although there were many fugu restaurants in Shimonoseki, we decided to pass.

Mother and I did a full-day Silversea shore excursion in Shimonoseki that included a morning panoramic view of the city from the hills overlooking the straits and visits to a traditional Japanese-style house, garden, and shrine. After a bento box lunch, we then toured Kokura Castle.

After driving to the top of a mountain overlooking the straits for a photo op, we drove to Chofu; a village near Shimonoseki that had walled houses with beautifully maintained grounds and narrow streets. We removed our shoes and toured a traditional Japanese house, complete with tatami reed mats on the floors and sliding doors between the rooms. We noticed that many of the Japanese touring the home took time to have their picture made holding a small sign (in Japanese) while kneeling on a mat in one of the bedrooms. I was so curious that I finally asked the guide what the sign said. He laughed and said, "The Emperor Slept Here". Apparently, the Emperor was a guest in the home at one time!

Next our Silversea bus drove to Chofu Garden, a beautiful traditional Japanese garden. The garden made use of all of the important elements--water, bridges, rocks, trees, and flowers. It was lovely and peaceful. Our next stop had an unexpected treat. The bright red Akama Shrine is dedicated to the eight-year-old child emperor Antoku. He died in 1185 during a major naval battle in the Shimonoseki straits. Our climb up the steps to the top of the shrine was rewarded with a view of a wedding inside. The bride looked lovely in her traditional Japanese dress. Some couples come to Akama to marry, and others bring their babies to be blessed.

Our bus next drove across the suspension bridge to Kyushu. After our bento box lunch in the Naniwa Restaurant in the Rihga Royal Hotel in Kitakyushu, we went to Kokura Castle. This fortress is a good example of Japanese architectural design. We climbed to the top of the structure and had a good view of the park area below. One small piece of history is that the town of Kokura was supposed to be the site of the second atomic bomb. However, on the morning of August 9, the city was overcast so the bombers went onto the secondary target--Nagasaki.

Leaving Shimonoseki, we sailed the waterways between the islands of Japan. It was a beautiful night to be at sea. Fishing boats dotted the horizon, and we were all somewhat saddened because our cruise was coming to an end.

Page 3 > > Kobe, Disembarkation, and Closing Thoughts > >
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