Paying your builder to complete the basement.
It's an upfront cost ($20 per square foot is a bargain, anything over $30 is getting close to a gouge...
in my market anyway) that is well worth it in my opinion, especially if you have kids.
Couple of reasons for this: 1) Most people will never have the time they hope for a complete basement, especially if they have a family.
2) Contractor quotes to finish the basement post-possession can be upwards of $40 per square foot, and the job will turn your house and life upside down for a long while.
In terms of finish upgrades, leave the basement to the builder's standard.
You won't get your money back down there.
It's either finished or not, and everything else is just bonus to a prospective buyer in the future.
Have the foundation walls poured to accommodate for a 9' basement ceiling.
If / when your basement is complete, this makes a world of difference.
It's been a <$,2000 upgrade for me on each home I've built (1,600 sf and 2,500 sf).
If you opt for the taller basement ceiling, upgrade the basement windows.
Often this will only cost about $150-$300 per window, and can get you something as large as 3' x 5', and includes the larger window well.
Makes for a great amount of natural light in the basement.
Foundation in winter: if you live in a winter climate and the concrete will be poured when temperatures could drop below freezing, ask how the builder will insulate the job site during the curing stage.
Often they will quickly get the subfloor installed on top of the foundation and either hang the furnace or run tiger torches - but there are other methods, which even include smoldering hay bales lined along the concrete walls.
Improperly cured foundations are problematic - so be sure to ask this question.
The builder should not be surprised and should have an answer at the ready.
Roofers' tie off: Roofers will often install cleats to the roof sheeting, to tie-off their fall protection gear.
You have two options here: 1) make sure when the cleat is removed, the holes are patched properly, and shingled over, or 2) ask them to leave the cleat there, as it will come in handy during future roof inspections.
Reinforcing all bedroom ceiling light fixtures to allow for the mounting of a ceiling fan (this is becoming standard practice for some builders where I live).
Spend as much as you can afford on quality bathroom vent fans, and on a quiet dishwasher (anything over $1,000 will usually be remarkably more quiet).
Open-concept home designs benefit greatly from this, as the dishwasher is often within earshot of the TV area or living room.
Consider insulating your basement ceiling with Roxul Spray foam insulation, if you can afford it, adds phenomenal value to homes in winter climates.
Not sure in ROI though...
Same goes for triple glazed windows in a winter climate.
If you've ever stood in front of one when it's -20 outside, it's like the window isn't even there.
Tankless hot water heater.
You have to wait a bit longer to get the hot water (seconds, you get used to it) - but it's efficient, and frees up valuable space in the utility room.
Make sure your electrical panel is located in the utility room.
Some builders will located it elsewhere in the basement as a convenience in relation to the location of the wiring through your property - but it can be unsightly and a pain to have it located outside of the utility room.
Have an extra plumbing manifold added to your utility room, with the lines capped off - or at least ensure there's a few empty ports on the existing manifold, to allow for future expansions.
Natural gas extension to your deck area, so you can move to a natural gas BBQ.
Upgrade the underlay before you upgrade your carpet.
If the standard is 6 or 7 lb, cost out the upgrade to 8 or 9lb.
Makes a difference that no carpet upgrade can.
Cost out hardwood stairs.
It's not cheap.
It cost me $5k up front to clad a total of 14 steps including 2 landings - but, I knew that doing it myself and shutting down my stairwell for a week would cause havoc in the house, and that when it came time to replace the worn-out stair carpet in 5 - 10 years, I'd be wishing I'd have just paid for the hardwood.
Plus, it looks fantastic.
Lighting: don't upgrade any fixtures.
Much cheaper to DIY later, and pretty fast to do.
Same goes for knob hardware etc.
Exterior lighting: consider moving any front-of house exterior sconces to the back of the house for yard lighting, and replacing them with front-of-house pot lights mounted in the soffit, if you have a front attached garage.
If not, just consider adding exterior lighting to the back of the house for yard lighting.
Triple switches: walk through the design in your head and make sure there's a wall switch where you'd expect to want one, e.
g.
top and bottom of all stairwells, etc.
Windows: a lot of new plans I see skimp on windows, i.
e.
there are few, and the ones that are there are small.
Maximize natural light by inserting windows on south and west-facing walls where possible.
Central vac: at least get the rough-in, for future use.
The vac pan installed in a cabinet toe kick in the kitchen is great.
Wire shields: the electricians can bang steel shields onto the studs to protect wires that have been run through the wood, from future wall-mounting projects, i.
e.
drill bits.
Get that.
Paint finishes: depending on where you live, there may be a design trend toward texturing walls.
Think about this before you go down that road.
The majority of the paint questions I see here in DIY are frustrations having to work with textured walls.
They're tricky to repair without looking like they've been repaired, vs.
non-textured walls.
Cabinet and flooring finishes: just a design tip here.
Think carefully before choosing excessively dark finishes, as they make spaces feel smaller.
Erring a shade or two lighter than you might initially choose allows you the flexibility to work with darker accent colours in paint and textile (furniture) finishes, which are easy and cheap to change.
Cabinets and flooring on the other hand are more permanent elements that require big money and time commitments to alter.
Same goes for backsplash and flooring tile choices.
You might like the blue and brown glass tile mosaic today - but will you like it so much in 5-10 years, when it may hamper the sale of your home because it represents a big DIY fix to alter? Fireplace surrounds: the standard will be a ceramic tile, the upgrade will be a selection of cultured stones.
Spend on the stones.
This area, and the kitchen, will be the focal point of your home, and the areas where you should be spending the lion's share of your upgrade dollars.
And lastly, understand the building process.
This is perhaps the greatest challenge for new buyers.
A lack of understanding of how contracting, subcontracting and tradespeople are booked, and how this affects build timelines, is the #1 cause of stress for first-timers.
Get familiar with this process, and cultivate a positive relationship with your builder - whether it's through a general contractor or a builder's superintendent for your job.
Too often relationships are soured by clients who feel it's their only job to complain.
I can tell you from experience that kind words and recognition of good service and jobs well done go a long way when it comes time for complaints to be addressed and questions answered.
Simply put: your builder is more likely to be responsive and expedite service requests for the respectful client than for the chronic complainer who can never be pleased.
It's true that "the squeaky wheel gets the grease" - but it's all in how you sound when you squeak, and what praise you offer when things are running smoothly.
It's an upfront cost ($20 per square foot is a bargain, anything over $30 is getting close to a gouge...
in my market anyway) that is well worth it in my opinion, especially if you have kids.
Couple of reasons for this: 1) Most people will never have the time they hope for a complete basement, especially if they have a family.
2) Contractor quotes to finish the basement post-possession can be upwards of $40 per square foot, and the job will turn your house and life upside down for a long while.
In terms of finish upgrades, leave the basement to the builder's standard.
You won't get your money back down there.
It's either finished or not, and everything else is just bonus to a prospective buyer in the future.
Have the foundation walls poured to accommodate for a 9' basement ceiling.
If / when your basement is complete, this makes a world of difference.
It's been a <$,2000 upgrade for me on each home I've built (1,600 sf and 2,500 sf).
If you opt for the taller basement ceiling, upgrade the basement windows.
Often this will only cost about $150-$300 per window, and can get you something as large as 3' x 5', and includes the larger window well.
Makes for a great amount of natural light in the basement.
Foundation in winter: if you live in a winter climate and the concrete will be poured when temperatures could drop below freezing, ask how the builder will insulate the job site during the curing stage.
Often they will quickly get the subfloor installed on top of the foundation and either hang the furnace or run tiger torches - but there are other methods, which even include smoldering hay bales lined along the concrete walls.
Improperly cured foundations are problematic - so be sure to ask this question.
The builder should not be surprised and should have an answer at the ready.
Roofers' tie off: Roofers will often install cleats to the roof sheeting, to tie-off their fall protection gear.
You have two options here: 1) make sure when the cleat is removed, the holes are patched properly, and shingled over, or 2) ask them to leave the cleat there, as it will come in handy during future roof inspections.
Reinforcing all bedroom ceiling light fixtures to allow for the mounting of a ceiling fan (this is becoming standard practice for some builders where I live).
Spend as much as you can afford on quality bathroom vent fans, and on a quiet dishwasher (anything over $1,000 will usually be remarkably more quiet).
Open-concept home designs benefit greatly from this, as the dishwasher is often within earshot of the TV area or living room.
Consider insulating your basement ceiling with Roxul Spray foam insulation, if you can afford it, adds phenomenal value to homes in winter climates.
Not sure in ROI though...
Same goes for triple glazed windows in a winter climate.
If you've ever stood in front of one when it's -20 outside, it's like the window isn't even there.
Tankless hot water heater.
You have to wait a bit longer to get the hot water (seconds, you get used to it) - but it's efficient, and frees up valuable space in the utility room.
Make sure your electrical panel is located in the utility room.
Some builders will located it elsewhere in the basement as a convenience in relation to the location of the wiring through your property - but it can be unsightly and a pain to have it located outside of the utility room.
Have an extra plumbing manifold added to your utility room, with the lines capped off - or at least ensure there's a few empty ports on the existing manifold, to allow for future expansions.
Natural gas extension to your deck area, so you can move to a natural gas BBQ.
Upgrade the underlay before you upgrade your carpet.
If the standard is 6 or 7 lb, cost out the upgrade to 8 or 9lb.
Makes a difference that no carpet upgrade can.
Cost out hardwood stairs.
It's not cheap.
It cost me $5k up front to clad a total of 14 steps including 2 landings - but, I knew that doing it myself and shutting down my stairwell for a week would cause havoc in the house, and that when it came time to replace the worn-out stair carpet in 5 - 10 years, I'd be wishing I'd have just paid for the hardwood.
Plus, it looks fantastic.
Lighting: don't upgrade any fixtures.
Much cheaper to DIY later, and pretty fast to do.
Same goes for knob hardware etc.
Exterior lighting: consider moving any front-of house exterior sconces to the back of the house for yard lighting, and replacing them with front-of-house pot lights mounted in the soffit, if you have a front attached garage.
If not, just consider adding exterior lighting to the back of the house for yard lighting.
Triple switches: walk through the design in your head and make sure there's a wall switch where you'd expect to want one, e.
g.
top and bottom of all stairwells, etc.
Windows: a lot of new plans I see skimp on windows, i.
e.
there are few, and the ones that are there are small.
Maximize natural light by inserting windows on south and west-facing walls where possible.
Central vac: at least get the rough-in, for future use.
The vac pan installed in a cabinet toe kick in the kitchen is great.
Wire shields: the electricians can bang steel shields onto the studs to protect wires that have been run through the wood, from future wall-mounting projects, i.
e.
drill bits.
Get that.
Paint finishes: depending on where you live, there may be a design trend toward texturing walls.
Think about this before you go down that road.
The majority of the paint questions I see here in DIY are frustrations having to work with textured walls.
They're tricky to repair without looking like they've been repaired, vs.
non-textured walls.
Cabinet and flooring finishes: just a design tip here.
Think carefully before choosing excessively dark finishes, as they make spaces feel smaller.
Erring a shade or two lighter than you might initially choose allows you the flexibility to work with darker accent colours in paint and textile (furniture) finishes, which are easy and cheap to change.
Cabinets and flooring on the other hand are more permanent elements that require big money and time commitments to alter.
Same goes for backsplash and flooring tile choices.
You might like the blue and brown glass tile mosaic today - but will you like it so much in 5-10 years, when it may hamper the sale of your home because it represents a big DIY fix to alter? Fireplace surrounds: the standard will be a ceramic tile, the upgrade will be a selection of cultured stones.
Spend on the stones.
This area, and the kitchen, will be the focal point of your home, and the areas where you should be spending the lion's share of your upgrade dollars.
And lastly, understand the building process.
This is perhaps the greatest challenge for new buyers.
A lack of understanding of how contracting, subcontracting and tradespeople are booked, and how this affects build timelines, is the #1 cause of stress for first-timers.
Get familiar with this process, and cultivate a positive relationship with your builder - whether it's through a general contractor or a builder's superintendent for your job.
Too often relationships are soured by clients who feel it's their only job to complain.
I can tell you from experience that kind words and recognition of good service and jobs well done go a long way when it comes time for complaints to be addressed and questions answered.
Simply put: your builder is more likely to be responsive and expedite service requests for the respectful client than for the chronic complainer who can never be pleased.
It's true that "the squeaky wheel gets the grease" - but it's all in how you sound when you squeak, and what praise you offer when things are running smoothly.
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